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SHOE-MANSHIP

HARRY MAGAZINE FW18

Harry Rosen carries the broadest selection of luxury footwear in Canada, from sneakers to the finest handmade Italian and English dress shoes. Here’s a small sampling of this season’s new arrivals. Every shoe and boot, except the Church’s brogue, is made in Italy.

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Luxury in Leather

 

(from left) Santoni sneakers are famously soft, lightweight and pliable; this one has a side zip to make life easier. Harry Rosen Made in Italy offers the ultimate gentleman’s sneaker in segmented, highly polished brown leather. Details on the tongue and heel counter have a softer texture. Henderson adds a thick white sole to its supple deerskin sneaker, and touches of suede to the heel counter and tongue. U-hooks for the laces and different tumbled leather finishes enhance another shoe from Harry Rosen – the black sole is more discreet than a white one.

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City Life

 

(from top) Maison Margiela’s enigmatic logo of a table of numbers usually goes on the tongue of shoes in its men’s collection; there is no tongue on this jaunty striped sock sneaker with suede details, so the logo appears as a white fabric tag on the “sock.” Salvatore Ferragamo works its gancini emblem into the side panel of this luxurious black velvet sneaker. Giuseppe Zanotti turns the idea of camouflage on its head with a very eye-catching sneaker with sparkly velvet and leather panels. The signature double zips are still there but the silhouette of the shoe has been reconfigured – to great acclaim. Hogan takes a more conventional approach to camo with this lightweight leather-and-nylon sneaker. The memory foam inner sole is exceptionally comfortable.

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Colour Story

 

Top shoe designers are turning to suede again this season, in a broad range of autumnal colours. (from left) Santoni’s grey chelsea boot is as comfortable as it is stylish. This russet “Open Walk” from Loro Piana has a very lightweight slim sole. Tod’s puts a natural crepe sole on its sand-coloured lace-up loafer but reverts to its famous pebbled leather sole for the brown suede wingtip derby beside it. Don’t step on Santoni’s blue suede shoes – especially this fur-lined navy lace-up chukka. The green suede slip-on with the orange lining is also from Santoni.

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Gentleman’s Boots

 

(from top) Scotch grain leathers look great but are often uncomfortably stiff: not in this case. From Harry Rosen Made in Italy, these deeply burnished brown dress boots feature the softest of leathers on a hand-painted leather sole. From the same label and in the same style, our brown suede boot features a rugged Dainite-style sole designed for ultimate traction on autumnal sidewalks. BOSS takes winter boots of soft tumbled leather and gives them a cozy fur lining and an extra-light rubber treaded sole. A side zip helps get them on and off. Bontoni’s chelsea boot is made of exceptionally soft yet strong leather, with a rope-like Norwegian welt for added durability. Exquisite hand-burnishing and surprisingly light weight are Bontoni’s signatures.

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The Heart of the Collection

 

(from top) BOSS plays textural games with this elegant dark brown cap-toe derby. English shoemakers aren’t as well known for their burnishing as Italian cobblers but this walnut cap-toe brogue from Church’s is a beauty. The half-rubber, half-leather sole is a practical concession to slippery streets. This is the first time Harry Rosen has carried a To Boot New York shoe in cross-hatched saffiano leather; the finish adds interest to this plain-toe derby. Antonio Maurizi makes its fall debut in our pages with this streamlined derby. A small artisanal company in Italy’s Marche region, it’s renowned BOSS for its beautifully hand-burnished leather.

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One of a Kind

 

An exquisite dress shoe for the man who is not afraid to be noticed, this plum-coloured double monk strap from Salvatore Ferragamo has full rubber soles and fine broguing on the seams. The buckles are shaped like Ferragamo’s signature gancini emblem and the top of the shoe is discreetly elasticated, so you don’t have to undo both buckles to put it on.

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Three Masterpieces

 

(from top) TOM FORD presents a shoe for perfectionists – a sleek cap-toe derby of an almost austere simplicity, in marbleized dark umber leather. Bontoni takes a different path with this pebbled leather double monk strap. The strap itself is cut on the bias, and the Norwegian welt running like a rope around the base of the upper adds a rustic note. The third shoe’s orange sole and lining tell you it’s from Santoni, made by hand in Italy. The company is known for the depth of tone and the subtle gradations in its hand-burnished leathers.

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