Ask Harry: Which Shirt Collar Do I Wear?
Every man needs these five shirt collars in his wardrobe, for everything from formal to casual occasions.
A shirt is one of the most flattering things a man can wear, and largely thanks to the collar. Designed to draw visual attention toward and elegantly frame the face, wearing a shirt with a collar is an effortless way to elevate essentially any look — but the important part is selecting the right style to suit the occasion and complement your face shape.
Use this guide to help you decide which shirt collar to wear, or inspire the next addition to your shirt rotation.
Button-Down Collar
Originally designed for sport, the button-down collar has since become one of menswear's most versatile staples, defined by the small buttons that fasten the collar points to the shirt, creating a relaxed yet polished ‘collar roll’. For this reason, the button-down collar wears just as well open as it does with a tie, and just as well under a sport jacket or worn on its own. Should you pair yours with a tie, make sure to match the collar’s relaxed nature with a knit or casual style.
Spread Collar
The spread collar is the workhorse of dress shirts, defined by its wide collar points angled outward for a clean, modern silhouette that works equally well with or without a tie. Incredibly versatile across dress codes and shirt fabrics, you can also wear this collar under a sport jacket or on its own. For those with a narrow or long face shape, the spread collar’s wide stance is particularly flattering, and when wearing a tie, pairs best with a full or half Windsor knot.
A beautiful shirt deserves special care, but “special” doesn’t have to mean “complicated”. We’ve refined the art of how to wash and press a dress shirt down to a few simple steps.
Cutaway Collar
The cutaway collar makes a bold, contemporary statement, defined by its dramatically angled points that face toward the shoulders rather than down, creating a wide spread that elegantly frames the face. It's a particularly flattering choice for those with narrower faces, as the wider stance helps balance proportions. When wearing a tie, the cutaway accommodates larger knots beautifully, though it looks just as sharp worn open with modern tailoring.
Wingtip Collar
The wingtip collar is the most formal of the dress shirt collars, distinguished by its small standing band and folded points that sit flat and face outward, resembling the wings of a bird. Reserved exclusively for black-tie occasions, it should always be paired with a bow tie and tuxedo or dinner jacket, making it the go-to collar for weddings, galas, and other formal evening events.
When wearing a tuxedo, always try your best to match the colour and fabric of your lapels and formal accents (typically silk or grosgrain) to your bow tie. This creates a cohesive look with an irresistible lustre.
Camp Collar
The camp collar is warm weather's most effortless neckline; a relaxed, one-piece collar that lies flat against the chest with no stiff structure or top button, creating a breezy, open V-neck that feels a world away from a traditional dress shirt. Typically cut straight and boxy with a straight hem designed to be worn untucked, camp collar shirts are equally at home paired with linen trousers, shorts, or layered over a tank top — relaxed sophistication at its most wearable.
The five essential styles of shirt collar every man should own are:
- Button-Down Collar
- Spread Collar
- Cutaway Collar
- Wingtip Collar
- Camp Collar
From black-tie galas to backyard BBQs, there’s a shirt collar style for all of life’s many occasions. Still not sure which shirt collar suits your face shape or wardrobe best?
Find the collar that flatters your face shape most, or explore styles you've yet to try — for one-to-one advice from an expert Style Advisor in-store.
