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Designer Book

 
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Never mind hedge fund tactics, our leading designers are taking the street in a different way – as inspiration for this season’s edgy, fashion-forward outfits. These are clothes for men who welcome a venture, who are prepared to take risks in the name of style.

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Versace has always loved the Greek meander pattern, seen here on the eye-catching yellow-and-lavender crewneck sweater. That stylish field jacket has leather detailing on the pockets while the washed and abraded charcoal denims have metal studs patterned around the pockets.

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Dolce & Gabbana didn’t use professional models for its runway show this season; instead it recruited millennial bloggers and social media stars. The merino wool sweater comes from that show, the crown knitted into the pattern, the “king” beneath it a sewn-on patch. The very trim pants are cropped above the ankle and decorated with metal military buttons on the hips and hems.

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The bold placket really stands out on Diesel Black Gold’s sharp leather bomber. Stack jeans are designed to crumple below the knee, the coated black denim distressed with a bleached effect at the hips.

 

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Diesel invented distressed denims, seen to effect here with a blue perforated suede bomber that’s perfect for a sunny fall day and light enough to wear indoors. Novelty graphics are everywhere this season, including on Diesel’s scarlet crewneck knit.

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The patch shirt is a Lanvin signature, made from three or four different plaid pieces stitched together. The aviator bomber is also a composite with a leather front, nylon back and sleeves and a stand-up shearling collar.

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Known for its affection for a soft, natural shoulder, L.B.M. presents this modern topcoat in a grey Prince of Wales check. Running the gamut from casual to suit wear, it could well become your favourite piece of autumn outerwear.

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Not your father’s preppy Polo! There’s a touch of streetwise edginess to the new collection, with camouflage cargo pants and big, bold graphics on the vintage-inspired letterman jacket. Its body is melton wool, the sleeves are leather and there’s ribbed wool on the collar and cuffs.

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Yves Salomom, the renowned Parisian fur and leather specialist, presents an ice grey cotton twill parka with a cloud-coloured shearling lining. The collar is trimmed with toscana shearling – the fleece treated to look like fur.

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Designers Dean and Dan Caten play with proportion this season, sewing plaid cuffs and shirttails onto a hoodie emblazoned with their logo. Super-distressed denims reference punk and the whole look is finished with an oversized, puffy, shiny down-filled vest.

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The British know coats better than anyone and this tailored camel-coloured topcoat is certainly smart enough to wear over a suit. It also looks very cool with a more casual outfit, thrown on over a hoodie, a chambray shirt and a pair of casual trousers. Nine-to-five becomes the weekend.

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Here are two looks that could only be from John Varvatos. On the left, an asymmetrically zippered jacket in a coated stretch knit that looks like leather, layered over a vest and a band-collared shirt. On the right, a unique shawl-collared, cutaway jacket in an alpacawool blend. There’s only one button to fasten it – but five buttons running up each cuff. With velvet trim over the pockets and on the cuffs, it’s simultaneously dapper and rock ’n’ roll.

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