How to Care for Cashmere

About Cashmere Fibres

Cashmere is among the softest naturally derived fabrics in the world, and that’s down to the exceptional individual fibres it’s composed of. Compared to other wools and natural fabrics, cashmere yarns are notably longer and finer (thinner), resulting in a fabric that feels smoother, lighter, and undeniably more luxurious in hand-feel.

Simply put: the finer the fibre, the softer the fabric once it’s woven — and cashmere sits at the very top of that scale.

Cashmere fibres are sourced from the ultra-fine undercoat of very specific goats, which are much thinner than those that compose traditional wool. For context, a human hair typically measures between 50 and 100 microns in diameter, Merino wool averages around 22 microns, while cashmere fibres measure an exceptionally fine 14 microns — one of the defining reasons for its unparalleled softness and premium feel.

Along with being incredibly soft and luxurious, cashmere is also naturally antimicrobial, which, in essence, means it does a good job of cleaning and deodorizing itself. This is due to the proteins and natural oils found within cashmere fibres, which inhibit bacterial growth while offering gentle moisture-wicking properties.

All of this to say that you should only wash your cashmere when truly necessary; if it’s visibly dirty, something has spilled or rubbed onto it, or you’ve completely sweat through the garment and it smells putrid, it’s time for a wash. Fewer washes help preserve the fibres and extend the life of the garment.

Washing cashmere is a touchy subject — quite literally — as it can be unforgiving when done incorrectly (resulting in a shrunken or misshapen garment) and typically requires good old-fashioned handwashing.

Let’s get one thing straight right up front, however: when in doubt, consult the fabric care tag. Every cashmere garment is made differently, and the manufacturer’s instructions are the most reliable guide for how to properly clean and care for a specific piece.

More often than not, washing cashmere comes down to a few simple rules.

Do:

After a few wears, small bumps and fabric imperfections may appear in high-friction areas of your cashmere garment — these are called “pills,” and are totally natural and normal. It’s also normal to want them gone, and doing so can actually help extend the life of your cashmere.

The best way to go about this is with a cashmere comb or electric depiller, which shaves the pills down to restore a smoother appearance safely without compromising the integrity of the cashmere’s surface.

As a general rule, all knitwear should be folded, never hung. Even the most robust cashmere garments aren’t impervious to gravity, which means hanging will eventually stretch and misshape them — clothes hangers, in particular, are notorious for distorting the necklines and shoulders of cashmere sweaters.

It’s also good practice to allow time between wears. Giving your cashmere a few days to rest helps the fibres naturally recover and return to their original shape. When stowing away cashmere for longer periods of time — whilst out of season, for example — place it in a clean storage bag, ideally made of breathable cotton. Don’t forget to wash your cashmere before putting it away — this helps to prevent moths, which are attracted to soiled fibres, and kills any eggs or larvae that might be present.

For an extra layer of protection, add cedarwood or dried lavender to your storage bag to naturally deter moths while your cashmere rests.

Mending and Darning Cashmere

Even the highest-quality cashmere is susceptible to wear over time — or moth damage if it hasn’t been stored properly. Small holes or thinning in high-use areas like the shoulders, elbows, and cuffs are common, and should be addressed as soon as they’re noticed to prevent further damage.

If you’re handy with a needle and thread, mending or “darning” your cashmere garments can be done from home. Begin by stabilizing the area by sewing a small square around the hole on the underside of the garment. From there, gently pick up the broken fibres and close the opening using new stitches worked in both the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) directions of the knit.

If you’re not as confident doing it yourself, any tailor worth his salt (or should we say, silk) can do it for you with relative ease, depending on the size of the hole.

Of course, like anything, not all cashmere is created equal — just look to the price gap between high-street brands and ultra-premium luxury brands; it’s not (just) the label you’re paying for, but the quality, craftsmanship, and ethical integrity of the fibre itself.

Perhaps sitting at the apex of quality and ethical integrity is ZEGNA’s Oasi cashmere line. Fully traceable from goat to garment, each piece can be linked back to its exact origin, ensuring total integrity and manufacturing transparency through a supply chain entirely controlled by ZEGNA.

 Brunello Cucinelli built his eponymous brand on exceptional cashmere, distinguished by unusually rich, expressive colour palettes — earning him the unofficial title, “The King of Cashmere.”

 Settefilli is an Italian brand that’s also specifically revered for its cashmere items, made from a small team of artisans using vintage looms and traditional techniques.

 Gran Sasso produces some of the world’s finest knitwear at remarkable value, making high-quality cashmere more accessible without compromising on craftsmanship.

And Ralph Lauren Purple Label offers one of the most coveted cashmere assortments in menswear, spanning everything from classic crewnecks to refined cardigans and beyond.

Whoever you trust with your next cashmere purchase, a little due diligence goes a long way. A strong brand reputation, ethical sourcing, and superior fibre quality ensure your investment not only looks and feels exceptional, but remains a worthy investment for years to come.