The Buyer’s Guide to SS24’s Best Designer Menswear
Our lead buyer Alex Binette’s take on this season’s contemporary designer offerings from A.P.C., Rhude, C.P. Company and Jil Sander.
By: Harry Rosen StaffDate: 2024-02-28
Last fall, we went bold by adding a number of ground-breaking contemporary designers to our collections. This spring, we’re keeping the trend going with new brands and collections, featuring newcomers A.P.C. and Rhude, and new arrivals from our two sophomore labels, C.P. Company and Jil Sander.
Few are anticipating these collections more than Alex Binette, our lead designer buyer. We sat down with him and channelled his enthusiasm for what’s to come this spring.
A.P.C.’s philosophy is stitched in its name; “Atelier de Production et de Création” (Production and Creation Workshop). The French label views production and creativity as a sort of dichotomy for existence; without each other, nothing comes to fruition.
Since 1987 A.P.C. has been bringing its minimalist designs to men and teaching them to dress along the way. For Binette, that’s what makes it a key player for us at Harry’s, “I think it’s such an important brand because it’s attractive to so many people. Take our denim catalogue, for example. We’ve really updated our buy to make things a little more modern, especially for younger guys looking to step up their style game. A.P.C. bridges that gap.”
Perhaps it’s the approachability that makes it so appealing to so many—in wearability and price. With A.P.C., you’re right on the money when it comes to quality, style, and bang-for-buck,” Binette says, “A fashion-forward guy might go for selvedge denim with loafers and a chore jacket, or an everyday kinda’ dude could pull off a T-shirt with a light-wash pair of jeans and white sneakers.”
For spring, expect to see an abundance of camp collar shirts, overshirts, fuller-cut shorts, relaxed trousers, and even matching sets.
Founded in 2015 by Rhuigi Villaseñor, Rhude reflects on Rhuigi’s move to Los Angeles while commenting on modern socioeconomics. In contrast to A.P.C.’s subdued, minimalist nature, Rhude fuses streetwear design with elements of luxury—certainly louder, but not overstated.
“Rhude is having a big moment right now, especially with celebrities,” explains Binette. Everyone from LeBron James, to Justin Bieber, to Lewis Hamilton, to Kendrick Lamar is repping it. And while it’s known for this streetwear sort of look, Rhuigi has been elevating it beyond just that.”
This upcoming season follows that sentiment. This season’s collection is inspired by Rhuigi’s aspirations he’s had since his childhood—a sort of lucid meditation on the American dream. In Paris, the label unveiled expressive tailoring in hues of strawberry reds, navies, and creams, ushering in a playful take on what you would expect from luxury stylings.
Returning for 2024, C.P. Company is a brand that’s hard to dismiss. While sometimes polarizing, it’s inherently cool. For Binette, it’s all about innovation: “There's no one that does it better than C.P. Company. Take these jackets for example. This one’s made from translucent fabrics, while this one literally turns into a backpack—who else is making stuff like that right now?”
It’s hard to argue with that. Even if you don’t require extreme levels of functionality in your wardrobe, the brand produces beauty in concept and design.
For this season, C.P. Company is bringing us everything we love about the brand, and then some, including water-resistant jackets, utility overshirts and cargo pants, and intensely military-inspired pieces.
Full Collection Coming Soon
Another designer we’ve brought back this season is Jil Sander, which has a few surprises for us. What should you be looking for this season? “To me, Jil Sander is the epitome of fashion, fabrication, construction, and class,” says Binette “It's so elegant and sophisticated without flaunting any logos or wordmarks."
He then diverts attention to a piece he’s had his eye on, “Look at this beautiful zip-up jacket. The double-faced fabric is immaculately soft. It’s something that a guy who wants the quiet luxury vibe, but maybe doesn’t want the Loro Piana look.”
Along with this zip-up, you can find boxy short-sleeve shirts, leather shorts, and oversized overshirts in our latest assortment.