The Well-Heeled Man: Fall’s Essential Footwear
HARRY MAGAZINE FALL / WINTER 2019
There’s nothing sneaky about these sneakers: the statements they make are loud and clear. From the top: Moncler crafts a sleek black sock sneaker out of mesh, leather, rubber and nylon. No need to undo the laces to slip it on or off. Giuseppe Zanotti sneakers are unmistakable (those signature twin zippers) and he is the master of embossing and printing calf leather to make it look like snake. Both Dolce & Gabbana are all over these super-lightweight sock sneakers (yes, the left sneaker reads “DOLCE”). Made with stretch fabric, they really do feel like socks.
Art and Sole
The key attribute of these burnished leather city boots is their weight – or lack of it. The durable rubber soles are much lighter than they look, and the boots are unlined so you can wear them indoors all day long in total comfort.
From the top: Harry Rosen Made in Italy’s boot has a Dainite rubber sole with discreetly recessed studs for extra traction. To Boot New York’s apron version is styled after a classic workboot. Many men choose not to lace up the top two high hooks. Doucal’s for Harry Rosen takes the hiking boot route with a sturdy lug sole. The laces look and feel like cashmere.
Sneakers can also be elegant and discreet, perfect for a casual day at the office
From the top: Santoni’s sophisticatedly simple design focuses attention on the colour of the suede – a gorgeously rich, deep hunter’s green. Ermenegildo Zegna prefers elephant grey for this stylish mid-top with tonal laces. The interior features the company’s trademark vicuña-coloured lining. Ermenegildo Zegna collaborated with Harry Rosen on this unique black deerskin sneaker with red laces and trim. Salvatore Ferragamo sneakers have a distinctive ridged sole that connoisseurs will recognize immediately, unless they’re distracted by the shoe’s supple, deep brown, soft-grain leather. Tod’s gives prominence to the white sole around its luxuriously soft burgundy leather sneaker.
They say people always notice what you wear on your feet. These boots are guaranteed to start a conversation.
From the top: Barker takes its inspiration from hiking boots but adds a bold goodyear welt to connect body and sole. The boot itself is made from burnished grain leather with burnished suede trim. Moncler sports its signature colours on the heel of this black grain-leather hiker with a notably lightweight sole. Santoni presents the statement boot of the season, sturdy and substantial with eight functioning buckles. The depth of tone in the superbly burnished leather really catches the eye.
One reason why the chelsea boot is now an indispensable part of a man’s shoe wardrobe is its versatility. Like a jacket, it can be dressed up or down and still looks just right.
From the top: Santoni uses the painstaking Bologna construction to give extra flexibility to this version in beautifully burnished merlot leather. To Boot New York chooses burnished brown suede, the gradations of colour applied by hand. BOSS proposes a burnished brown leather wingtip chelsea boot, with subtle broguing on the toe. Tod’s boot in soft grey suede works particularly well with blue jeans.
Dress for Fall
This season brings a new silhouette to many cap-toed dress shoes – a slightly fuller, rounder shape to the toe.
Clockwise from the top: Brunello Cucinelli fashions a derby out of exceptionally soft deerskin; the sturdy tread sole is well adapted to autumn and winter weather in the city. Henderson for Harry Rosen also uses deerskin for this shoe and adds a Vibram Gumlite sole for great durability, grip and cushioning – ideal for a man who is on his feet all day. Tod’s black pebble-grain leather oxford is another exclusive collaboration with Harry Rosen. The full rubber sole has Gommino-inspired pebbling.
Cream of the Crop
Highlights of any man’s collection, these superb dress shoes are the epitome of elegance. Properly cherished and cared for, they will give you pleasure for many years to come.
From the top:Santoni calls the burnished red-and-black colouration of this masterpiece “night watch.” It’s a “whole-cut” shoe, made from a single piece of leather with no seams whatsoever. Bontoni features a Norwegian welt around the front of this oxford, a type of construction that usually adds weight – not in this case. The shoes are miraculously light, especially on their Vibram Gumlite soles. The brown leather TOM FORD uses on its double monk-strap, cap-toed ankle boot is so dark it almost looks black. And it’s patinaed, so you clean it with a soft cloth but no polish to buff up the lustrous shine.
For formal tuxedo dressing or for fun with a designer cocktail jacket, nothing beats a pair of black patent-leather evening shoes – with leather soles, of course, for dancing.
From the top: BOSS mitigates the wet look of patent leather by using a subtly textured calfskin.Christopher Bates for Harry Rosen sports a distinctive grosgrain trim around the throat line of this chic derby. The shoe’s burgundy leather sole features the Canadian designer’s signature kiss motif. Canali developed this classic oxford exclusively for Harry Rosen, adding prominent grosgrain piping and trim.