The idea of what a jacket is and what it can do has grown dramatically in recent years. We now think of a man’s jacket collection as the cornerstone of his wardrobe – for weekends and evening events, and for workdays when a suit isn’t required.
A hybrid jacket is a fall essential. This one, in a subtle charcoal-and-navy plaid, is fully lined and has quilted elbow patches and the warmth of pure wool. Zip in the lightly quilted removable gilet and do up the throat latch, and this jacket is all the outerwear you need on a cool autumn morning.
Vicuña is also a colour – the tawny brown of the animal’s natural coat – and Alessandro Sartori has made good use of it throughout his new collection. Here, it appears as an overcheck against a blue background, on the jacket’s taped inner seams and as an internal washable nubuck pocket.
The plain dark turtleneck and trousers let the jacket’s black-and-blue plaid make an uninterrupted statement of style. A soft, unlined construction and patch pockets lend it an easygoing informality that is still smart and sophisticated.
A jacket of many moods. Paired with a floral shirt it has a playful, casual feel, but you could wear it just as easily with a shirt and tie for the office. Either way, it looks cool and polished. And where is Etro’s trademark paisley pattern? The lining, of course.
Think of it as a cardigan designed to look like a jacket. Knitwear is in the DNA of this Italian company, and this totally unlined, unconstructed piece is as soft, stretchy and comfortable as a sweater.
Why is Canali’s Kei jacket so successful? Simple answer: it makes so many men look good. A canvas structure gives shape and stability to the chest and shoulders but the jacket is lightweight, natural-looking and very comfortable. This example, in a grey houndstooth with a brown overcheck, interprets heritage patterns with convincingly up-to-date panache.
Boldly contrasting patterns and colours can be dramatically elegant when put together well. Here the sport shirt and tie harmonize with Isaia’s lavender plaid jacket – the pinnacle of Neapolitan tailoring.